Just Back from Ecuador with Metropolitan Touring
In May, Waterstone escorted a group of top travel advisors (and spouses) to Ecuador, where they were given VIP treatment by METROPOLITAN TOURING. Stops included the historic capitol city of Quito, a luxury lodge in the middle of the rainforest, cruising in the Galapagos Islands aboard La Pinta, and the Finch Bay hotel.
We wanted to do something a little different this time and give you an “outside-the-industry” viewpoint. So we asked Paul Partridge (shown below with his wife Lynne, Vice President of Waterstone) to keep a journal during the trip. Below he shares his Metropolitan Touring experiences. Gracias, Pablo!
I believe it was Day 2 of the Galapagos cruise when a fellow passenger said to me, “It’s so nice that you have close friends who like to travel together regularly. How many trips have you taken together?”
He was shocked to hear that our group had only know each other a mere four days. That’s the kind of special coterie it was. We had terrific fun together discovering the unique wonders of Ecuador. Here are some highlights.
Words and photos by Paul Partridge
3 DAYS AT MASHPI LODGE
Our adventure begins with Diego from Metropolitan Touring driving us out of Quito. Highway becomes local road becomes dirt road becomes jungle path enroute to MASHPI LODGE. Mashpi is an amazing hideaway deep in the cloud forest. Looking back, I’m still not sure if it was real or a mirage. You drive along, deeper and deeper into the wilderness, and then – suddenly, there it is, like some sort of lush Brigadoon.
Waiting for us is Santiago, our guide during our 3-day stay. Having the same guide is a treat, because he gets to know your group, your pace, your interests, etc., and then tailors the activities accordingly.
Santiago is a rainforest encyclopedia. He can spot, identify, name and wax poetic about any plant animal, insect, tree, fungus, bird, reptile, stream or river we encounter.
A call echoes through the forest. “What kind of bird is that?” I ask.
“Actually, it’s a frog,” says Santiago.
Ok, I’m from Jersey, but to be fair, that was no ‘ribbit’ or ‘croak.’ That frog could win the national bird calling contest.
Staying at Mashpi feels like living in a large, fancy tree house. Floor-to-ceiling windows in every room make you feel totally immersed in your surroundings. Right outside your window are 400 species of birds, trees, frogs, and endemic species found nowhere else in the world.
Day 1: The Incredible Glass Frog
A quick lunch and we’re off into the forest, seeing rare birds, Toucans, tayras, a tarantula, a giant snail, and many butterflies (I lose count after a zillion).
After sunset Santiago takes us on an unforgettable night walk using flashlights and headlamps. We’re stalking the rare fluorescent glass frog. Within 10 minutes Santiago has found one. And there is much rejoicing. It’s a great find, especially since glass frogs are the size of a thumbnail – and you can see right through them. Our maven also points out assorted spiders, crickets, bats, and a praying mantis.
A female praying mantis eats the male after mating – especially the head because they desire the brain protein. Santiago tells us about one jungle species where the male has evolved a 2nd brain in his chest. This way he can have sex and survive the beheading. I imagine this must confuse females on praying mantis dating sites. “Wait, didn’t I just eat you last week?”
Day 2: Swimming in a Waterfall
The trail drops steeply from outside the lodge to the Laguna River below. At times we walk alongside the river, other times in it (rubber boots are provided). Down and down we go. Our reward is Magnolia Waterfall, and we’re invited to swim in its pool. This is one of those pinch-yourself moments. The staggering beauty and serenity leave a mark.
Eventually we have to hike back. Note to self: walking down is easier than walking up. As we huff and puff, Santiago mentions that there’s a lunar eclipse tonight. It feels like we’re hiking up to it to see it in person.
Mashpi is home to over 30 species of hummingbirds, and in the afternoon we’re entertained by a dozen different varieties. They’re so quick and so tiny, you don’t see them as first, but you can hear them buzz by your ear.
There are many surprisingly delightful things about the lodge. One unanimous comment within our group is the quality of the meals. I don’t think any of us expected to eat so well in the middle of the rainforest. Every meal is delicious. And the best natural fruit juice concoctions ever.
Day 3: A Birdseye View of the Forest
The highlight of the morning is a ride on the SkyBike. SkyBike is your average, everyday bicycle built for two – if you happen to grow up a member of the Flying Wallendas. The SkyBike sits on a tight rope high above the jungle canopy. The front person enjoys the view; the back person is the engine. Once you reach the other side, switch positions and peddle back.
At home I won’t even go on a step ladder, I’m so terrified of heights. Somehow, this seems doable, even for me. As we paddle over the treetops, my adrenaline is flowing and I’m shouting, “Isn’t this amazing?” My wife wants to know, “Who are you and what have you done with my husband?”
Mashpi offers an alternative way to float in the clouds called the DragonFly. This is a one-hour ride in an open-air gondola that holds four persons. No peddling required.
In the afternoon, Metropolitan Touring arranges a transfer back to Quito and checks us into their CASA GANGOTENA HOTEL. Situated in the heart of Quito’s Old Town, Casa Gangotena is charming and elegant. Staying here feels like you’re starring in an old black & white movie – a romance. You had me at classic old bar CG, but there’s also a beautiful atrium, garden and lovely terrace/outdoor bar with gorgeous sunset views of Plaza San Francisco and the city.
QUITO & THE MIDDLE OF THE WORLD
The following morning we meet Marco, one of Metropolitan Touring’s most seasoned guides. Marco shows us Old Town Quito, honored as the first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978.
First stop is the Monastery of San Francisco. The church is a mix of several different architectural styles including Baroque and Moorish. One of the reasons for the mixed styles is that the church took over 160 years to complete, so styles, influences, architects changed. Marco gets us access to the coro (choir), complete with an inspired Moorish-style ceiling and 36 wooden carvings of Franciscan martyrs on the walls.
Next, a short walk to Independence Plaza. Framed by the city’s most important buildings – the Cathedral, the Presidential Palace, the Municipal Building, and the Archbishop’s Palace – this is the heart of Old Town. We tour the temple of La Compania de Jesus and its exquisite gold-gilded interior. Many consider this church to be the most beautiful in South America.
Strolling out of the Compania we run into a parade celebrating the 200th anniversary of Ecuador’s liberation. A fun surprise.
In the afternoon we visit the middle point of the world (latitude 0°) at the Equatorial Monument north of Quito. We embrace the Instagram moment and take pictures with one foot in the northern hemisphere and one foot in the southern hemisphere.
CRUISING THE GALAPAGOS
Day 1: La Pinta Perfect
An early morning flight brings us to Baltra Island and the waiting LA PINTA YACHT. With only 24 total cabins, La Pinta is the perfect size – big enough to have all the amenities you need/want and small enough to provide lots of personal attention. The cabins are quite large – certainly larger than expected.
Within hours we’re into our first island expedition – exploring South Plaza Island. Being a group of 10, we have our own Zodiac boat a la Jacques Cousteau (although the locals prefer the name panga boat). Approaching the island I’m expecting to see exotic wildlife, and I’m not disappointed. Sea lions, iguanas, fiery-red crabs, sea turtles, albatross – they’re all here in abundance. But what I’m not prepared for is the strange landscape they inhabit:
A cross between an Arizona desert, a Dali painting, and the surface of Mars – stunning . . . spectacular . . . otherworldly. Seeing the Galapagos in person vs. in books is like seeing Bruce Springsteen in concert vs. listening to his albums.
Day 2: “Oh, the Places You’ll Go!”
I suspected it yesterday but now I’m convinced: there’s some sort of inter-galactic transformation that happens in the panga ride from La Pinta to the island. Because once again, we’ve landed on another planet. This one is called Santa Fe Island. It looks nothing like South Plaza Island – or anything else on earth. More like something created by Dr. Seuss.
We’re greeted by a welcoming committee of sea lions and Santa Fe iguanas. Like my wife’s Italian aunts, these iguanas never leave their neighborhood throughout their life.
After the hike, it’s time for snorkeling. We’re swimming alongside so many fish and sea turtles that it makes breathing difficult. Not because our snorkels don’t work, but because we’re stopping to laugh out loud at the shear spectacle of the show.
Shrieks of, “Did you see that?!” echo across the bay.
Day 3: Swimming with Sea Lions
The La Pinta guides are impressive in their knowledge of and respect for the Galapagos ecosystem. They’re happy to share as much information as we can absorb. The crew, likewise, is first-rate. They take care of everything from our wetsuits to our favorite cocktails. And throw in thoughtful touches such as a book to help identify Galapagos fauna, and surprise us by twisting towels into clever animal sculptures when we return to our cabin after an island expedition.
Today our guide Dries takes us for a rigorous morning hike on the eastern tip of San Cristobal Island. We’re negotiating boulders and climbing up cliffs. The effort is worth it. San Cristobal evokes Utah, Nevada and Colorado crossed with Catalina Island. Around each corner is a more spectacular view.
After the hike we paddle kayaks for a bit, then go for a swim. What starts off as a cooling dip turns into frolicking fun with sea lions. Curious and puppy-like, they seem as fascinated with us as we are with them. Their favorite trick is to swim right up to your face and peel away at the last second. As Lynne is snorkeling, two sea lions swim alongside and a third one jumps clear over her as if performing in a Sea World show. I stick my mask in the water for a better view. The jumping one comes at me so fast that I leap up, startled. He glides over and sticks his head above the water. Wait – is he laughing at me? Then he playfully nibbles my leg as if to say, “Hey, don’t worry – I’m just having fun.” I’ve swum with dolphins before, but nothing matches this experience.
In the afternoon we’re back in the panga for a coastal expedition of Cerro Brujo. Then some r&r on Cerro Brujo’s gorgeous white coral beach. I hear one travel advisor – a very experienced world traveler – say this is the prettiest beach she’s ever seen. Difficult to disagree.
As La Pinta sets sail for Isla Espanola, it’s happy hour on deck. Sam, our eagle-eye advisor from Houston, spots an orca whale off the stern. Look west and there’s a jaw-dropping sunset over Sleeping Lion Rock. The sunset has 3 acts: Wow!... Glory be!!... and, Are you kidding me!!! as the colors intensify and burst across the sky like fireworks.
Day 4: The Blue-Footed Booby Dance
Today we explore Punta Suarez on Espanola Island, the southernmost of the Galapagos Islands. Its flat, lava/boulder terrain is home to many bird colonies and iguana – including the Christmas Iguana, named for its green and red coloring. So far we’ve seen mockingbirds, frigatebirds, albatrosses, red-billed Tropicbirds, 3 kinds of boobies (red-footed, blue-footed and Nazca), the Galapagos hawk, doves, gulls, and of course, the legendary finches of Darwin fame. A blue-footed booby calling all the single boobies with a left-foot-in, left-foot-out hokey pokey mating dance gives the group quite a chuckle. Albatrosses doing beak-fencing is also a giggle.
Fatima, our guide, leads us to a cliff on the southern side of the island. “Wait for it!” she says. We watch in anticipation as a large wave rolls in. A loud whoosh, then a geyser of water blasts through a lava blowhole, spraying water 70 feet into the air.
More great snorkeling in the afternoon, and another chance to swim with happy go lucky sea lions. Schools of fish are everywhere, including yellow-tailed surgeon fish, king angelfish, sergeant majors, parrotfish, and sea turtles.
Day 5: Giant Tortoise
Last stop is the Charles Darwin Research Station, where we visit the captive rearing grogram for giant tortoises. This is a crowd favorite. We’re lucky in that it’s a cloudy day because the Tortuga are active (on sunny days they seek shade and the cover of rocks). Some of these tortoises are over 80 years old. From here we take a water taxi to Finch Bay.
THE FINCH BAY HOTEL
We’re 9 days into our Ecuador adventure and the latest the alarm has gone off is 6:30 am. Every day has been a go-go whirlwind with a full schedule. FINCH BAY HOTEL is a welcome antidote, a vacation from our vacation.
This is true, laid-back luxury. Even the lava gulls and blue herons hang by the pool. There’s nothing extravagant or show-offy about it. Rooms are unadorned and comfortable. There’s a very nice spa, yoga room and workout gym, but it’s the location and the setting that make it special. Guests are here to unwind and unplug, and for that it’s paradise.
And you will be pampered here. The excellent staff sees to your every whim. Twice I try to carry wet towels from the pool deck. Each time I’m quickly intercepted by a Finch Bay employee insisting on relieving my burden and comforting me as if I’d been heaving the rock of Sisyphus.
Finch Bay has its own beach, but we also swim at Tortuga Bay and the Las Grietas lagoon. Tortuga Bay has three gorgeous, pristine, white-sand beaches, along with marine iguanas and sea turtles. Las Grietas is near the hotel, within a national park. Steep cliffs frame a quiet lagoon where there’s fun snorkeling and plenty of fish.
This was my first trip to Ecuador (which I renamed Ecu-adore along the way). Muchas gracias to Metropolitan Touring for making it so memorable. I’m making a list of what to see on my next visit.
For requests, contact Metropolitan Touring at: traveldesk@metropolitan-touring.com